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Chopmeister is working on a "Haddon" project to upgrade a Ultimaker into H-bot movement 3d printer. First attempt failed but second version will be released soon.

Haddon - first attempt in converting Ultimaker to H-bot

From his blog (http://chopmeister.blogspot.com/):

If you are like me, you think H-bots are totally sexy. (No, not in that sense, shame on you!) You also have an Ultimaker. Now what to do... How about making a kit to convert an Ultimaker to an H-bot style gantry, but in a totally non destructive way, using a few parts from the original UM? The reason behind it, besides testing out an H-bot, was that while I love my Ultimaker, it's design is very unfriendly towards experimenting - it's so tight everywhere there's not much room to put new parts, and to change the print head you need to disassemble half of the printer. With this add-on, I can easily change parts, even the whole print head just by turning a few bolts. Also, if more drastic changes are needed. it takes 6 bolts to unplug it from the UM frame so it can be accessed from all sides. 

Anyways, that all seemed like a fun idea so I set out to design something. After two days the UM to H-bot add-on was born - nicknamed Haddon. It has a lasercut frame which mounts snugly on top of the original UM frame, uses UM's linear rails, bearings and motors. The extra parts are a GT2 belt, two GT2 pulleys, some small bearings and a bunch of M3 nuts and bolts.
Now there's one very important thing about this version - it doesn't work. Having no experience with H-bots, I completely missed the fact that some serious forces appear while moving on the Y axis, and seems like the UM bronze bushings don't like those forces. In the end it moves, but does so pretty awkwardly. So, time to rebuild everything from scratch. The frame, pulley holders and motor mounts are good, so I need to make a new print head and carriages. This could be an issue since I sold my laser cutter a few days ago, and it will be at least a month or so till my new one arrives. I really like to lasercut everything I can instead of printing it, because it's way faster and more predictable, but I guess I'll just have to print everything out this time. 

I've spent quite a lot of time moving the printhead around to get a feel of the whole system and how various parts influence each other while in motion, so I'm pretty sure I know what to do for the next version. Expect an V2 update in a few days, hopefully with some videos of it working.
For the build size obsessives among you, the XY size is basically the same, while you get some more space in Z, exactly how much remains to be seen when I finish everything.

http://chopmeister.blogspot.com/2013/11/haddon.html

Initially he didn't want to post about failed attempt, but we spoke about it and he did because failure is important lesson and information for other DIYers.

Since he is fellow blogger and 3d printing enthusiast from Croatia and we met on a workshop in Osijek, I'm following his work and more exciting projects are to be expected soon.

He is well known for his DD1 Ultimaker direct drive upgrade and H3 Ultimaker extruder.

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/03/lasercut-ultimaker-direct-drive-dd1.html


Update:

Here is a video of Haddon in action.

Ultimaker 2 launch by Erik de Bruijn from Ultimaker on Vimeo.


Yes, there is a new Ultimaker 2 out. I was on a vacation so I completely missed it. Cool and powerfull machine. In the expensive zone, but probably worth it. It remains open source. Hopefully there will be some independent testing soon.


https://www.ultimaker.com/pages/our-printers/ultimaker-2


Specifications and features of Ultimaker 2 from company page:

It’s a quiet machine and fits in almost any environment. By making use of different materials for the frame we created a printer with the exact measurements on the outside as the Ultimaker Original, but with a larger build volume. We went from X20,5 * Y20,5 *Z20,5 cm to X25,5 * Y25,5 * Z20,5 cm, so there is more space available in depth and width.
A heated bed in combination with printing on glass ensures that the material can be easily controlled. It also makes it possible to print with a wide variety of materials. When the glass is coated with a gluestick the material will have a better grip during printing. It will also make it easier to remove your print when finished as the heated bed cools.
Under the right temperature warping of your printed objects is ruled out for both PLA and ABS.
Apart from the Bowden tube we improved the entire extrusion system. Starting with the filament supply, the direct drive gives superb control so both supply as retraction will respond immediately. We’ve managed to get an even better print-to-size ratio.
The hot end is completely redesigned making it even more reliable. By using a cover and cooling several parts, the temperature of the hot end is more predictable and less sensitive to external elements. Our hot end is also all lot safer because it’s almost fully made of metal so you’ll never get a melted peek. The improved electronics take care of reliable control and monitoring of all of the electronic components in the printer.

Practical experience in printing Ulimaker Bowden clamp upgrade with Colorfabb PLA / PHA and XT clear materials.


Video by: http://www.youtube.com/user/barnacules1?feature=watch

Video by: http://www.youtube.com/user/barnacules1?feature=watch

Petleh82 improved his Ultimaker. He added cheap Bluetooth module to enable wireless printing. He also stopped using blue tape on printbed and replaced it it with glass. To get PLA to stick to the glass print surface he coated it in mixture of wood glue and water. He successfully printed with nylon on glaass since it has problems sticking and warping on blue tape. Nice projects Petleh!





Check out previous post with a video on his one year with the 3d printer. He really shows how printers are useful and fun in everyday life:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/03/petleh82-on-one-year-owning-3d-printer.html