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You can now build this great looking delta yourself. Boots industries released the files since their new printer BI v2.0 is coming out.












From Thingiverse description:

Ask questions in our forums.
Learn how to strings the towers here.
Learn how to calibrate the towers here.
Learn how to properly calibrate the Ramps 1.4 pots here.
The Rostock BI V1.0 was sold at Boots Industries in fully assembled and kit form.
Our popular version of the Rostock printer by Johann features a cable drive and several other key modifications/improvements.
All parts shown were printed using our Super Premium PLA Filament.
Comes with everything you need to build your own or improve upon the design:
All Sketchup models, ready to print stl trays and additional exploded view models and pictures.
Don't hesitate to contact us if you want help with your build!

Quick specs:

• Printer Dimensions (LxWxH): 380 mm X 330 mm X 580 mm
• Build Volume (cylindrical): 170 mm Diameter X 155 mm Height
• Maximum Operating / Printing Speed: 200 mm/s
• Minimum Layer-height: 100 Microns (0.10 mm)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:164965

MadMaxx made this great video describing his experiences with Prusa Mendel. Because he described several problems and raised some questions he received a lot of negative comments on this video.
He did told me on twitter that he was intentionally controversial to start the debate which is important for open source community. Without discussion there is no progress and that is the point that some of his commentators do not understand. They just went into attack mode "HOW DARE YOU TALK ABOUT PROBLEMS!!!!!.




Problems he describes:

1. Hanging Z-axis
2. Two Z-axis motors
3. Lots of wire strain
4. Hard to maintain - easy to mess up 
5. X axis wobble

I don't't have lot of experience with Prusa Mendel, but I read or heard about most of those problems, but never tough of them as design issues. I just never connected the dots.
Many of those problems can be solved with upgrades and later Prusa Mendel designs made improvements to address those issues. And there is the Prusa I3 :-)

Update (11.1.2014.):

Josef Prusa responded to this video:

Hi man,
first, my name is pronounced "proosha".
As you said, its old model, no reason to bitch about it in 2013 you are three years too late ;-)
It is still built as there are thousands of ppl who can help you with it.

Hanging Z axis was made because it transfers less wobble to the print, now with tube couplings, its not needed. Your coupling slid out of the shafts either because they were oversized or you didnt tighten them. Sanding the motor shafts helps a lot too. Your cables broke as you didn't bolt them to the Y carriage or used poor cables. Two motor Z axis is much easier to maintain then the original mendel one, if you would built original mendel, you would know. That thing sucked to calibrate. The x axis wobble is true, but during prints it wasn't affecting the quality too much. ...
Anyway, keep up the good work.

Source:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQuUqd9ldUU

Let's talk abut problems. Criticism is free consulting.

Here are videos by Allen Jetter that describe how he improved his Prusa Mendel and changes / upgrades he made. He invested lot of work and time. It doesn't solve all problems mentioned above and raises some new issues, but it is good illustration on hove to move ahead.

Wood is very cheap. Wood is easy to obtain. Wood is easy to work with and many shaping technologies are available. It comes in many forms with different properties from flexibility to strength. It is renewable resource. It can be easily recycled.
There were entire generations of printers like Ultimaker based on laser cut plywood, but full wood was never in fashion. probably because it is not high-tech and not self-replicating.
I would like to see more projects with wooden parts. I like the texture and natural aesthetics of wood contrasted to technology.

Here are some designs that use wooden parts, some are fully functional, some are under development:

Wood frame Mendel90

Mendel90 is great design and it is often built with wooden frame. One of the great success stories with wooden parts. Design is custimizable based on your input and generates paper printable cutting and drilling guides for the frame.

Adapto 3d printer

It can have aluminum beams and low cost wood frame.
























http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/11/adapto-diy-3d-printer.html

Ikea RepRap

While surfing around I found this reprap with wooden / particleboard frame (maybe made from Ikea furniture). Further information is unavailable. Let me know if you have any additional information about this printer.












http://aeons.phrenzy.org/~berserk/reprap/printer/

Gunstrap

The Gunstrap is a plywood repstrap that is based on the Mantis CNC design. It has a build area of 200x200x100mm (comparable to the Mendel) and is employs a heated build platform and a heated build chamber. Unlike other wood based repstrap's, no ball bearings are required for its construction, excluding the extruder and all parts can be obtained from scrapped printers and scanners. In addition, its build chamber can be heated up to 100 degrees Celsius as most stepper motors are contained out side of the build chamber and no thermoplastic is used in its construction. The only stepper motor within the build chamber is the extruder stepper motor which is actively cooled using a peltier.

R-360 features:

• Cheap when compared to any other existing printers with a large printing area and speed. This must make more people easier to have it.
• Our 3D printer consists of far fewer parts. Compared to RepRap, it contains only one third of the parts. So it's really easy to build it even if you are a beginner. We assemble the main parts of the printer, saving you from all the hard work, so you can be up and running in one hour. No soldering necessary, just plug the main parts together with a few bolts and you’re ready to print! We will upload all instruction on our website.
• The bed is a disc and turns 360 degrees. This is unique and fun! Also this keeps the bed perfectly level using a unique leveling system. We invented this bed shape to get rid of extra bearings, belts, rods and plastic parts.
• The rotating bed makes it ideal for 3D scanning applications. Scanning turntable mode is included (3rd party scanner is required)
• We are planning colourful printers, such as orange, sky blue, pink and light green. We also have white and black. This very cute 3D printer would compliment your rooms’ decoration.
• Light but robust! You can travel with it easily! You can take it apart and build it again easily, folding it up into a small, flat traveling size in minutes.
• Fully Modular, we designed it so very easy to change and upgrade any of its parts.

Future plans for R-360:

• Cloud Printing upgrade. Using your Raspberry Pi, you will be able to send prints directly from the internet to your 3D printer, turning it into a networked (wifi if your Raspberry Pi supports it) 3D printer! (Separate Raspberry Pi is required)
• We are planning to add separate 3D scanner upgrade. The disc shaped bed allows us to create for you the next step in 3D printing: the 3D copying machine! A 3D scanner will be able to scan an object and then the 3D printer reproduce it.
• Multi colour printing. Multi colour or multi material upgrade.
• Modular Upgrades: a larger printing area; 30cm printing bed and 30cm printing height, plotter & paste extruder heads, and 3D scanning apparatus.

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2132002936/r-360-the-most-simple-and-modular-3d-printer

http://replicatorwarehouse.com/






























R-360 printer specifications:

User Bam from Lulzbot forums experiments with 3d printing metal solder. He had some success but there are obstacles in the road. This could be interesting for electric circuits 3d printing.


He notes:

Early experiments with metal printing with a Budaschnozzle 1.1 are looking good. Repeat: early experiments (Tin 95.8%, Copper 4%, Silver 0.2%, McMaster 76805a61). If you can wait a few days before trying this out, I'll let you know if it destroys the nozzle. Fun fact: silver solder will stick to painters tape.
The flow cuts out after about 15mm of 3mm feed, we might be able to extrude continuously with a larger thermal mass around the nozzle (metalschnozzle?). Alternately we could print in short bursts through some sort of g-code trickery.

His plans for the future:

• Faster extrusion at higher nozzle temps (going to give an all metal noz a shot)
• Printing through a glass nozzle (I've got some lab grade glass eyedroppers on order that I'll try to hack into a hotend
• Smaller diameter filament (should cut down on the heat soaking up through the filament)

http://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=380&p=1992&hilit=bam#p1992

Simplistic open source SmartRap RepRap designed to be very easy to assemble and as cheap as possible. Nice job!





















From RepRap wiki description:

This is a new design of a reprap 3d printer. It is in the spirit of the printrbot simple , designed by Brook Drumm , one of our best designer in my opinion. I tried to make it even simpler (let's start a chalenge with Brook? :) This one is made with printed parts only so it's easy reproducible. It's also full GPL , meaning open to any business.

The goal for the Smartrap is to have the feeling of a lego assembly feasible by a 12 years old kid without complication.The Education part is very important and by building himself, the user should learn how every part is working in the all system, so he would be able to find problems and repair himself easily. In other word, the Smartrap tries to reach makers who are not real gurus like we have actually in the reprap world ( not negative meaning here, but only to help to spread the world and attire more people to this wonderful world of replicative-dIY-makers).

Other features in any order of importance are:

• Real Reprap : most of the structure should be printed, so it can print itself for friends. Only the common base should be bought on special shops ( motors,hotend,controller,lm8uu,endstops).
• Simple to build : I mean it! . No need for special tooling or ultra precision cut or drill or even adjustment. The final goal would be: no screw and everything come together by snap (almost).
• Open source! : GPL, you can build it, sell it, make a business of it. all that is ok if you stay under the GPL licence .
• Cheap as possible : fishing line, printed bushing?( not well working for me now) , cheapest electronics ( no heat bed, 4 motors, no fan).
• Optionally open to experimentation : I tried so much configurations before that i should put them all online one day : Aluminium rails with 608zz, fixed axis with moving hotend, moving axis with fixed hotend..etc .

Features

• Print size : from 150x150x150 to around 250x250x200. The first prototype is 200x200x150.
• PLA only : It's a political decision: Even if ABS gives better results , i really don't like the fumes and the ecological impact. PLA , beeing compostable and asking for only 60 watts alime, is far more interesting to me. ( open to talk of course :)
• Layer height : not really tested for now, looks like 0.2 works well.
• Printed parts: 10.
• Screws : M6 x2 , M3 x 16.
• Non Printed parts : 6 smooth rods 8mm , 12 lm8uu, 1 M5 , 2 fishing lines 500mm , 4 nema17 motors, 1 hot-end j-head, 1 controler board , 3 mechanical endstops.
• Assembly operations count : not much but not totally clear for now. I wait to assemble 2 or 3 more printers to make a good doc and video of asssembly

It is also on Indiegogo:

http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/smartrap-open-source-3d-printer-the-viral-printer