actress of pakistan

Jonathan Keep is well known for his Delta clay printer. In this video he shows low-tech method to 3d print shapes from chocolate at your home. He made an extruder from a syringe which is air pressure powered from regular soda bottle and bike pump. Ingenious!
Looks yummy!




Source and more details:

http://www.keep-art.co.uk/journal_14.html

https://www.youtube.com/user/jkpottery?feature=watch

If you are into wearable electronics and 3d printing you can combine them with this type of project. One of my friends made cycling jacket with hand gesture activated direction blinkers. With 3d printer, GEMMA controller and NeoPixel LEDs from Adafruit you can make this cool coat buttons.


Detailed build manual on Adafruit learning system:

http://learn.adafruit.com/neopixel-coat-buttons/

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:226407

Lux is a new open camera project. It has 3d printed housing which can be printed on i.materialise or Shapeways, using the "Polished White Polyamide" or "Polished White Strong & Flexible" materials. It is powered by Trinket micro arduino controller.

Specifications:

• Type: 6x6 Box Camera
• Media: 120 Roll Film
• Objective: 65mm f/5.6 Single Element, Coated
• Viewfinder: Waist-level Brilliant finder
• Shutter: Electromechanical single-leaf, 1/125-1s + B&T
• Aperture: Rotating diaphragm, f/5.6-32
• Dimensions: 7.9 x 9.4 x 11.7 cm
• Construction: SLS Polyamide (body), Stainless Steel (shutter, aperture)

Lux camera homepage:

http://kekado.zapto.org/kevin/open.html

Flickr stream with some videos of Lux in action: http://www.flickr.com/photos/frostedbutts/with/11893611496/

Photo taken with Lux open camera

Here is much simpler 3d printable camera, the Pinhole, but it can be fully 3d printed on your home desktop printer:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/10/pinhole-diy-3d-printable-camera.html

Nice DIY project by Adafruit Industries with their parts. It uses NeoPixel LED ring and Trinket micro arduino controller.

http://learn.adafruit.com/3d-printed-camera-led-ring

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:235242

Instructables user rmd6502 made a detailed tutorial how to design a 3d printed soldering mask for your electronics projects. he goes from Eagle EPS to PDF format, then PDF to DXF and then uses OpenSCAD to get the final STL.

He writes:

This is a neat way to save a bit of money when you order boards. Normally you pay an extra $25-50 for a solder stencil, either a silkscreen or a sheet of metal with holes where the solder paste needs to go

Detailed guide can be found at:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-3D-print-a-solder-mask/?ALLSTEPS

Marcus decided to make his personal "Travel CNC" which has CNC mill, 4th axis, 3d printer, vector knife, resin casting and work table in single, mobile, quiet, clean machine.













Here is the link to his continuously updated blog post about the project progress:

http://marcuswolschon.blogspot.de/2013/07/travel-cnc3d-printervector-cutter.html

He is also developing his own 4+5 axis CAM software, so go and help him:

http://marcuswolschon.blogspot.de/2013/05/free-45-axis-cam-software.html

I hope his project will be successful and well documented!

Must-watch video if you are interested into DIY, desktop manufacturing machines, hacking, making and generally awesome stuff!

Nadya Peek speaks about the process and basics of making machines that make, technology, digital fabrication economics, MIT modern high-end CNC machines and their limitations, how g-code is very stupid  and how biologists buy expensive machines that are easy and cheap to DIY ...
She also talks and shows many interesting machines that you can make yourself like liquid transfer and auto pipetting machines...



From video description:

Making a new control system for a machine is often a slow and tedious task. Maybe you already have a 3 axis stage, and you already know how to move it around. But what if you want to add a camera and use it for position feedback? You'd have to redesign the whole hardware layer.

I'll talk about some ways I've built modularity into control systems for machines so that you can quickly iterate on different kinds of machine systems without getting stuck in hardware land forever. This includes connecting synchronized nodes across a network and importing legacy nodes for things like, say, an old pressure box you found in the trash and has rs232 in.

Down with gcode! Long live machine control.

You can see her PopFab factory in a briefcase here:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2012/07/popfab-factory-in-briefcase.html

Here is the post about MTM Multifab and Fab-in-a-Box:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/01/mtm-multifab-multitool-desktop.html

Nadya Peeks home page:

http://infosyncratic.nl/

I found one of her presentations which loosely follows the theme of the talk in PDF format:

http://cba.mit.edu/events/13.03.scifab/Peek.pdf

She also spoke about some high end CNC machines being monitored by gyroscope, sensors and GPS so they can not be moved without authorization to prevent them begin exported to blacklisted countries. Here you can see the perfect example of that crazy security policy: http://boingboing.net/2014/01/06/high-end-cnc-machines-cant-b.html


The talk was part of 30th Chaos Communication Congress (30c3) by the Chaos Computer Club (CCC) at Congress Centrum Hamburg (CCH)

Damian Axford is developing new open source DIY laser cutter. axCut is influenced by nopheads Mendel90, BuildLog 2.x and Lasersaur. It is still under development but it looks very promising. I'll follow the project since I'm getting more and more interested in laser cutters.

axCut project requirements:

• 40W CO2 laser (with space to upgrade to at least 80W - i.e accommodate a 1000mm tube with water cooling)
• Bed size to accommodate A1 stock - design files use 850mm x 600mm with 30mm margin all round
• Fully enclosed
• Allow for pass-through (i.e. very long items)
• Allow for high/tall items and "autofocus" via motorised bed (150+mm travel)
• Have unobscured front access for loading/unloading parts
• Bench-top design (may integrate a bench at a later date)
• Side connections for extraction and cabling (i.e. power, usb)
• Investigate using reprap s/w stack vs Mach3 - I'd really like to leverage as much as possible from the reprap community (e.g. modified sprinter firmware)
• Budget target of £1500 (max £2000)

http://axrap.blogspot.com/

axCut GitHub repository with all the files:

https://github.com/Axford/axCut

You can learn more about Lasersaur cutter that inspired axCut here:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/09/lasersaur-open-source-laser-cutter.html

Pictures of axCut:

It is not 3d printing but it is a sort of DIY additive manufacturing. Arduino Pro Mini board was made by using a pen plotter and the Electroninks Circuit Scribe roller-ball pen with highly conductive ink to draw a circuit on a sheet of paper. Electronic components are then mounted on it with glue or sticky tape. And it works!



This method for conductive ink printed circuits could be easily adapted for 3d printers. There are also several methods to produce DIY conductive ink with various material mixtures.
Also you shoudl keep in mind that this is made from paper, so if you put too much voltage in, it could catch fire. Stay safe.

Detailed instructions and all the files can be found here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Paperduino-20-with-Circuit-Scribe/?ALLSTEPS

























Conductive ink on paper sheet electronic circuit production is technology that is finding more and more practical applications, you can see interesting sensor here:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/10/off-topic-sensprout-2d-printed.html

Here is one of the many methods to produce homemade conductive ink. This one is easy and cheap, maybe not the most suitable for this type of project. It is made from copper particles suspended in gum arabic water solution.

Thomas Sanladerer designed , printed and tested this filament diameter sensor. It could bi used on filament making extruders as a control sensor, or in 3d printers to get better printout results. The work on it is in progress, further accuracy improvements are needed but the current results look promising.































Files can be found at:

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/filament-diameter-sensor


From project description:

This is a proof-of-concept filament diameter sensor, currently intended for an extruder making filament. The filament centerline is 90mm above the mounting surface.
It picks up the filament's diameter between two bearings, amplifies it via the lever by a factor of 3.6, which moves a magnet in front of the hall sensor.
The hall sensor's depth is adjustable and is locked into place via the M3 bolt. Bend the hall sensor's leads 90° to the back and place the sensor in recessed spot. Lead the wires out to the front.
The 6x2mm magnet goes into the matching hole in the lever. The second hole intended for a ballpen spring, which is not needed in most use cases.
For testing, upload the included sketch to an Arduino, connect the hall sensor to 5V, ground and hook the signal pin up to A1 on the Arduino. Connect via serial at 115200 baud, it will start spitting out two values each line, the first one is the smoothed ADC value, the second one the calculated diameter. To calibrate, insert a test object with the maximum diameter you want to measure between the bearings and move the hall sensor carriage until the ADC value just reaches a maximum. Lock the carriage in place and use that value along with the diameter of the object as the last entry in the Arduino's lookup table. Insert two (or more, if you increased NUMTEMPS) more objects of varying sizes (for example the shafts of drill bits) and fill out the lookup table. Use the idle position without anything inserted for the zero-diameter position.
Support might be required for the files as they contain 30° overhangs. If you use Slic3r, you're better off with no support material.

Digital manufacturing solutions are getting cheaper and more closer to DIYers. This sub 5000 USD waterjet cutter slices metal and this technology could be in your workshop soon.



From video description:

Hydro: The First Low Cost Waterjet
Senior Design Project -- University of Pennsylvania (2012)
Adam Libert - www.AdamLibert.com
Objective:
My team of five decided to create the first ever, small-scale, low-cost, and easy-to-use waterjet cutter, finally making this great technology available to hobbyists and small businesses on a budget.

Project Details:
I was the lead mechanical designer on this project and custom designed a fully waterproof and environmentally sealed XY gantry that would be able to withstand the water and abrasive from the waterjet. The waterjet has a cutting work space of 12"x14" and yet the machine is entirely self-contained to a footprint of only 2 feet by 2 feet, meaning that it can be easily rolled through a doorway and fit in the corner of any room. As well, it requires only a typical electrical outlet and shop air supply to run, making it a feasible option for universities, hobbyists, and small businesses with a budget of $5000 or less. The waterjet is low maintenance, requires only minimal training to run, and is able to cut through 1/4" aluminum and 1/8" steel to a tolerance of 0.005".

Results:
This project won the Mechanical Engineering Senior Design competition, and each of us on the team was presented with the Gemmill Award for Outstanding Creativity.

http://www.adamlibert.com/Waterjet

I like Barnacules AND Joerg.


http://twitter.barnnerd.com/


Original Rambone slingshot by Joerg:

Adam Kemp made this low cost extruder project from scratch made from aluminum and automotive glow spark as heat source. You will need to cut some aluminum parts, but the design looks solid.

From project description:

I love 3D printing, so I decided to build my own printer. After playing around with commercial machines like MakerBot’s Cupcake and Thing-O-Matic, it hit me that I could make my own for free, or very near it.

So, off I headed down the long and winding road to design and build a small 3D printer (or as my son likes to call it, the Toy Machine). After a great deal of dumpster diving, I scavenged enough stepper motors, linear rails, and drive belts for the mechanical parts, but I was stumped when it came to the heart of the printer: the extruder. The internet turned up a slew of fancy designs, but all possessed one design flaw: they required 3D printed parts, so you’d need to have a 3D printer to make a 3D printer!

My solution was to build this robust extruder using a handful of tools, one online parts order, and a trip to the auto-parts store. For a heater, it uses a $10 glow plug from a diesel engine, and it performs as well as commercially available extruders.

Thingiverse page:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153464

Detailed making instructions are at:

http://makezine.com/projects/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/glow-plug-3d-printer-extruder/

Video of a DIY project where a WickedLasers Spyder Arctic 3 laser is attached to the gantry of SeeMeCNC delta configuration Rostock Max 3D printer and used to etch patterns into leather. Cool!

Turi Cacciatore made this Rostock based custom Delta 3d printer with frame made from Ikea furniture pieces. He used carbon archery arrows for delta arms. Nice work!



Source with detailed information and building guide:

http://turicacciatore.tumblr.com/post/69085105229/making-my-3d-printer

Custom Delta frame made from cut Ikea pieces pictured above

You can see another 3d printer from hacked Ikea furniture pieces, the Ikea RepRap, here:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/11/diy-3d-printers-made-from-wood.html 

Deltas are everywhere ... here is new one by AndyCart ...

From Thingiverse description:

This is my own variant of a variety of 3D printer designs available. I have used ideas from Kossel, Delta Pi, 3DR and, of course, Rostock. Many thanks to the designers of those machines for their brilliant ideas that I have shamelessly 'Cherry Picked' hence the name of my design!
The rods on my printer are 277mm from steel ball centre to centre. The towers are 800mm Bosch/Rexroth aluminium extrusion and the base frame extrusions are 250mm long as are, obviously, the top frame extrusions. You need nine in all.
The bearing carriers use 6 623 10mm x 4mm x 3mm bearings and slide directly on the extrusion. Nut traps for M3 nuts are included in the carrier. The rods connect to the carrier with a plate that fastens with 3 M3 bolts, again nut traps are included. The rod carriers and the effector plate hold 10mm x 5mm countersunk, cylindrical rare earth magnets and my rod end balls are 8mm diameter. My rods are 5mm carbon tube but you could use 6mm aluminium. My rod end balls have a 10mm M5 threaded rod and are the type used for the ends of gas struts, etc. the idea of the seperate rod carriers was to enable different rod attachment methods but the magnets and balls have worked out fine for me.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:210028

Archery is great field for using 3d printers. Many things can be produced, repaired and replaced. Here are some:

DIY Arrow Nock

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:203761

DIY Arrow Fletch Protector / Straightener

DIY Arrow Accessories Box

From Kickstarter descrption:

The Cartesian Co. printer EX¹ transforms electronics and prototyping in the same way that 3D printing has made things possible that were inconceivable even 5 years ago.
The EX¹ printer is not designed to create any 3D object like normal 3D printers. It’s been crafted and designed for one key purpose, to allow you to 3D print circuit boards, layering silver nano particles onto paper or any suitable surface to rapidly create a circuit board. In 2011, an article in Wired said that within two years 3D printers could print electronic circuits. Two years to the day, we’re announcing the EX¹, a printer that allows you to rapidly 3D print circuit boards.
The process is as easy as clicking File > Print. This lets you create electronics, just as you've envisioned - wearable electronics, paper circuits, printed computers or whatever you imagine. A 3D printer creates the objects of your imagination; the EX¹ lets you create the electronics of your imagination.

Wearable circuits

One capability of the EX¹ we're really excited about is the ability to print straight onto fabric. Anyone who has used conductive thread will tell you how frustrating it is when the thread breaks but you can't find the break! With the EX¹ you can print circuits straight onto the material of your choice.

How it works

The reason we created the EX¹ is simple; we got sick of making PCBs by hand. We got so sick we set out to find a way to make circuits quickly and effortlessly.
The basic principle of operation is simple. Two inkjet cartridges similar to the ones in your desktop printer print images on a substrate, but instead of ink they lay down two different chemicals. When these two chemicals mix, a reaction occurs to produce silver nano particles, leaving a silver image on the substrate.

After a year of working on the EX¹ we believe we've finally created a printer that will allow people to design and make radically new things. With a print area of 17.5 x 8cm (6.9 x 3.2in) you'll be able to print boards well above the size of what you can design in the free version of Eagle. At a size of 43 X 32 X 17cm (17 x 12.6 x 6.7in) its roughly the same size as your Canon or Epson printer at home. Weighing in at only 6kg (13.5lb) it's very portable and will be perfect to take to work or your local hackerspace.

Software

How hard is it to use your home printer or office photocopier? Not hard (we hope), and that's exactly what we've aimed for with our software.
But of course printing electronics isn't exactly the same as printing a cute baby photo. We give you complete flexibility with our software, anything from just importing an image and clicking print, all the way through to having control over every printing variable.
We've included presets and tools to make getting into making electronics as easy as possible, while at the same time allowing experienced pros to push the boundaries of what can be done.

Materials

As well as making it easy for people to create complex circuits we wanted to make it easier to put them together. You can always solder the circuits but if you're not at that stage yet we've been successfully using conductive glues that's as easy as finger painting. In fact, when you use it with a paper circuit it almost IS finger painting!
We're developing new ways of treating and coating everyday materials to be printed on, so there's nothing holding you back from creating whatever your heart desires.
The materials you can print onto is only half of the equation. Equally important are the inks you're using to do so. We're actively working on new ink formulations and processes to ensure using your printer is as easy and reliable as possible.

The inks we are using are very safe and we won't be gouging you for refills like some printer companies out there (we hate that too!).

I expected more DIY solutions for electronic circuit printing until now. Maybe they will come in future. This product will also compete with small DIY cnc mills / routers that can cut out PCB boards.

Mikey77 made a small 3d printable electronic circuit and created a detailed how-to guide on Instructables. It is made on a regular FFF DIY 3d printer (Replicator 2) shaped like network of grooves and holes in a printed board filled with DIY conductive glue which closes the electric circuit.

Video of a working printed circuit:




Detailed building instructions, .stl circuit files and more photos:

http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printing-3D-Print-A-Solderless-Circuit-Board/?ALLSTEPS

DIY conductive glue which closes the electric circuit:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Conductive-Glue-and-Glue-a-Circuit/?ALLSTEPS

3D printing fumes are NOT good for you. Malcolm Langille made an enclosure for his Type A 3d printer with exhaust system to extract the fumes outside of his house.
I wonder how the temperature change and build surface cooling due to strong air movement affects the 3d print quality.




Source page with more details:

http://www.3dhacker.com/category/667/Type-A-Machines/listings/519/Enclosure-External-Exhaust-and-Fan.html

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:197099