actress of pakistan

Jonathan Keep is well known for his Delta clay printer. In this video he shows low-tech method to 3d print shapes from chocolate at your home. He made an extruder from a syringe which is air pressure powered from regular soda bottle and bike pump. Ingenious!
Looks yummy!




Source and more details:

http://www.keep-art.co.uk/journal_14.html

https://www.youtube.com/user/jkpottery?feature=watch

Jaidyn Edwards shows how to connect on Sainsmart Smart 2004 LCD Controller to a 3d printer.

This Smart Controller contains a SD-Card reader, an rotary encoder and a 20 Character x 4 Line LCD display. You can easy connect it to your 3d printers board using the "smart adapter" included.

Barnacules has another nice video tutorial about how he mounted active cooling fan on his Robo 3D printer Arduino controller board to prevent overheating. He used 3d printed mounting brackets.


From video description:

You can print these brackets on your Robo3D with heated bed off to prevent a crash and have your printer fix itself! You don't really need a 2nd 3D printer :P
Get Fan Bracket @ http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:166045 

Today while printing on my Robo 3D I ran into a problem where after 30 minutes it would just shut down and stop printing, after this happened 3 - 4 times in a row I flipped the printer over and felt the ramp board and it was on fire! I checked the forums and talked to some friends and they said that the ramps heat up really bad and can shut down if you run the heated bed at high temps while printing for prolonged time (known issue). The solution is to add some active cooling in the form of a fan to the Arduino board that drives the Robo 3D.

I used my Ultimaker 3D printer to print out a few brackets from Thingiverse.com to mount an 80mm fan to the bottom since I had clearance with the new feet I printed that raised the printer up for the Smart LCD Controller I recently installed (check that video out). The results were epic and in this video I will show you the entire process end to end to fix this problem once and for all.
The brackets were printed w/ following CURA settings on Ultimaker v1
White PLA material
0.2mm layer height
0.4mm nozzle
70c Bed
210c Hot End
100mm/sec
Cooling fan 100%
Total printing time approx 50 minutes...

Source: https://www.youtube.com/user/barnacules1?feature=watch

Many people are building machines they designed from scratch. Here is combination of CNC machine and 3d printer which is well documented with complete build guide. It has some interesting features like printing with many materials.

Here is 2BEIGH3 as CNC cutter slicing trough acrylic plate:



Here is 2BEIGH3 3d printing with Nylon (btw: printing Nylon emits toxic fumes, it should be done in controlled environment):

2BEIGH3 technical specifications:

• Build volume for CNCing: 14” x 14” x 6”,  355mm x 355mm x 160mm  
• Build volume for 3d printing: 14” x 14” x 12”, 355mm x 355mm x 355mm
• Material Aluminium 3mm or 0.125" ABS and PLA Plastic Rod or Line
• Plastics 2-3mm(or 0.125") Nylon, Nylon Polymers, Nylon 6 and 6/6 - 6' Rod
• Foam 3mm or 0.125" PET (Plastic from water bottles)
• (Steel with the addition of cooling) 
• Resolution: X-Y Resolution +/- 0.005 ~ +/- 0.012, Z Resolution +/- 0.005 +/- 0.005
• Cut/Print Speed 350mm/min 24mm/s
• Cutting Foam ABS
• Tools/Tips 0.125” – 0.250” .32mm - .62mm

Software:

• Any CAD that makes “.dxf” and exports “.stl”
• MACH3
• LazyCam slic3r rev 6
• PC Win XP

This hybrid can print with various materials like ABS, PLA, different nylon polymers, acrylic and It can also print with reclaimed PET from the regular PET bottles. Here are the images of printed objects in different materials:



Here is a video of it printing in clear acrylic:





Hot end is also custom designed from simple parts:



























All the details need for construction of 2BEIGH3 can be found here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Combination-CNC-Machine-and-3D-Printer/?ALLSTEPS

Electronhacks made this video to show production process of the 3d printed fan duct. However it is also excellent demonstration of friction welding plastic with filament inserted into Dremel. The friction produced makes a strong welded bond.



Video by ElectronHacks

























Here are 3d printable rivets that you can use:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/01/3d-printed-rivets-for-friction-welding.html

Here is another post about DIY ultrasonic and soldering iron plastic welding:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2012/12/diy-ultrasonic-plastic-welding.html

Update:

here is a video with same friction welding technique with PLA plastic.



Update 2:

It is not 3d printing but it is a sort of DIY additive manufacturing. Arduino Pro Mini board was made by using a pen plotter and the Electroninks Circuit Scribe roller-ball pen with highly conductive ink to draw a circuit on a sheet of paper. Electronic components are then mounted on it with glue or sticky tape. And it works!



This method for conductive ink printed circuits could be easily adapted for 3d printers. There are also several methods to produce DIY conductive ink with various material mixtures.
Also you shoudl keep in mind that this is made from paper, so if you put too much voltage in, it could catch fire. Stay safe.

Detailed instructions and all the files can be found here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Paperduino-20-with-Circuit-Scribe/?ALLSTEPS

























Conductive ink on paper sheet electronic circuit production is technology that is finding more and more practical applications, you can see interesting sensor here:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/10/off-topic-sensprout-2d-printed.html

Here is one of the many methods to produce homemade conductive ink. This one is easy and cheap, maybe not the most suitable for this type of project. It is made from copper particles suspended in gum arabic water solution.

Another great video by Barnacules


From video description:

All upgrades in this video were printed using colorfabb PLA/PHA filament from http://printedsolid.com. It's fantastic material!
What's up Nerdgasm fans! This video will show you all of the things I've done since I received my Robo 3D printer to get it printing reliability with no hassles. Out of the box the printer never really performed well for me but after I tracked down the problems, made some tweaks and printed some upgrades I'm happy to report it works like a charm and is not giving me anymore problems! I hope that the information in this video is useful to you early adopters and helps you maximize your print quality when using this inexpensive printer. Don't give up guys, just like all technology like this tweaking is just a part of the experience and you will be very proud with the results once you do. 

Get your own Robo3D printer @ http://robo3dprinter.comGet your material @ http://printedsolid.com
== Link's to printer upgrades ==
Z Axis Stabilizers [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:126873]
E3D Print Head Fan Holder [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:186027]
Top Mount Spool Holder [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:188820]
Cable Holder [http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:209034]
E3D Hotend [http://e3d-online.com/E3D-V5-1.75mm-D...]
One thing I forgot to mention in the video is to use 'Furnace Cement (from Amazon)' to secure the thermister (heat probe) to the print head instead of Kapton tape, it gives a much better connection between the censor and the block and the temps are far more stable as a result!
Special thanks to Harrison V and Braydon M for being a source of information and support while I got this Robo3D figured out!

When I first received the printer and unboxed it I had several problems I had to trouble shoot and figure out ranging from the bed leveling issues to inconsistent feeding issues. Over the weeks with help from the internet and the guys at Robo3D and PrintedSolid I was able to tweak, upgrade and tinker to get this printer to become a solid work horse just like my Ultimaker (But not as fast, but that is expected).
The biggest problem with this printed I have found is the print head. The stock print head on the ABS model (can't speak for the PLA model) seems to have a problem with the tube inside cracking causing oozing or temperature problems leading to material extruding too hot or too cool. I also had problems with it jamming and clearing a jam from it was a nightmare. I found upgrading to an E3D print head was the best solution since this print head can handle any material and has not jammed on me once yet!

I hope this was helpful for you guys, please let me know in the comments if this solved your problems or if you have other problems I don't address in the video (maybe I can work with them and address them in a future video). I also would like to know if you found better solutions to some of the problems then I did.

Save tons of money on your science equipment budget or start DIY science lab. It is easy ...

Open source lab homepage:

http://www.appropedia.org/Open-source_Lab

Here is a link to an open source calorimeter:

http://www.appropedia.org/Open-source_colorimeter

Here is the Thingiverse collection of 3d printable science instruments:

http://www.thingiverse.com/jpearce/collections/open-source-scientific-tools/page:1


You can build the 3d printer yourself as it is also open source, detailed instructions are available, check out the post about it here:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/12/appropedia-most-delta-3d-printer.html


here is 3d printable open source spectrometer:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/09/publiclaboratory-mobile-3d-printed.html

3d printable calorimeter

Adam Kemp made this low cost extruder project from scratch made from aluminum and automotive glow spark as heat source. You will need to cut some aluminum parts, but the design looks solid.

From project description:

I love 3D printing, so I decided to build my own printer. After playing around with commercial machines like MakerBot’s Cupcake and Thing-O-Matic, it hit me that I could make my own for free, or very near it.

So, off I headed down the long and winding road to design and build a small 3D printer (or as my son likes to call it, the Toy Machine). After a great deal of dumpster diving, I scavenged enough stepper motors, linear rails, and drive belts for the mechanical parts, but I was stumped when it came to the heart of the printer: the extruder. The internet turned up a slew of fancy designs, but all possessed one design flaw: they required 3D printed parts, so you’d need to have a 3D printer to make a 3D printer!

My solution was to build this robust extruder using a handful of tools, one online parts order, and a trip to the auto-parts store. For a heater, it uses a $10 glow plug from a diesel engine, and it performs as well as commercially available extruders.

Thingiverse page:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153464

Detailed making instructions are at:

http://makezine.com/projects/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/glow-plug-3d-printer-extruder/

DeltaTrix is open source delta configuration 3d printer project by Richard Tegelbeckers. It has very detailed Instructables building guide and features sturdy cnc cut wood frame with Airtripper Bowden Extruder, RepRapPro Tricolour hot end and RAMPS electronics. He will also Kickstarter it soon.




Detailed construction manual and all the files needed:

http://www.instructables.com/id/DeltaTrix-3D-Printer/?ALLSTEPS

DeltaTrix has sturdy CNC cut full wood frame construction

DeltaTrix print results

There are some similar detailed build guides for Delta printers like this one if you are interested in building different model:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/09/extensive-roctock-delta-building.html

Update:

It is on Kickstarter now:

http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1142241325/deltatrix-3d-printer-open-source-and-fully-hackabl


Technical specifications described in Kickstarter campaign:

The theoretical printing area is 280mm (11 inch) in diameter. As a square this works out as (almost) 200x200mm (8"x8"), which suits the used 'MK2A' heated bed. As it is also useful to be able to remove items, the gap between the uprights is just over 295mm. The maximum build height is around 280mm (11").
Main features:

• Linear delta robot layout provides a mechanically simple motion platform for moving the print head only, not the workpiece.

• Off the shelf RAMPS electronics allow for easy replacement in case things go wrong.

• Using a LCD display and SD memory card (supplied in our kits), the DeltaTrix 3D Printer can operate on it's own. It does not need to be attached to a computer.

• There are several (Open Source) options in terms of software. At the moment we are using Repetier on the PC, a modified version of Marlin as the firmware on the RAMPS electronics, and the standard Arduino IDE for tweaking the firmware.

• A heated bed with glass print surface, allows for PLA and ABS to be used as filament.

• In terms of filament, the DeltaTrix 3D Printer is designed to accept 1.75mm PLA and ABS on a variety of 1kg reels, as long as it is of good quality.

• Igus linear slides with pretension are used, providing a robust and durable bearing solution from a highly reputable manufacturer. The strengthening ribs on the uprights keep the rails straight and sturdy.

• The current design print head assembly uses a single Reprappro Hot End, with a nozzle size of 0.3 or 0.5mm. The assembly also has a fan and integrated duct for cooling the top of a print.

• Quick changeover print head assembly. Useful for swapping between two print head assemblies, eg. one for ABS and one for PLA. The prototypes use connection blocks, but the kit will have proper connectors. Please, note: the standard kit only contains parts for one off print head assembly.

Very detailed information with full build instructions and all the files:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Geoweaver-Walking-3D-Printing-Hexapod/?ALLSTEPS

From Instructables description:

Geoweaver is a student designed robot created in the Creative Architecture Machines advanced options studio at the California College of the Arts (CCA) in San Francisco, California, taught by Jason Kelly Johnson of Future Cities Lab and Michael Shiloh. The design is based on a 12-servo hexapod with a glue gun extruder attached, and is the culmination of about 60 days of research and prototyping. Although the robot's official name is Geoweaver, it also goes by many aliases: Servo Killer, Eater of Shields, Melter of Wires, and Destroyer of Regulators, among many others. It is a very difficult and delicate machine, and is not a project to be tackled for the faint of heart.
But if you do take it upon yourself to accept it's challenges, it's rewards are great: it is a six-legged, walking 3D printer. The center mechanism uses two servos to control the pendulum-like extruder head, allowing it to cover a basic XY plane (though curved to the surface of a sphere, see video above), and one servo for the extrusion gear that forces the glue-sticks through the "print head." All of this can be controlled through the software Rhino 5, with the plug-ins Grasshopper and Firefly

it was designed and made by Student Team: Jia Wu, Jeffrey M. Maeshiro, Mary H. Sek at CCA - California College of the Arts Architecture Advanced Options Studio, Prof. Jason Kelly Johnson with Michael Shiloh

Update:

As several commentators on G+ and Reddit noted, they are like puppies pooping ... ;-)

Mikey77 made a small 3d printable electronic circuit and created a detailed how-to guide on Instructables. It is made on a regular FFF DIY 3d printer (Replicator 2) shaped like network of grooves and holes in a printed board filled with DIY conductive glue which closes the electric circuit.

Video of a working printed circuit:




Detailed building instructions, .stl circuit files and more photos:

http://www.instructables.com/id/3D-Printing-3D-Print-A-Solderless-Circuit-Board/?ALLSTEPS

DIY conductive glue which closes the electric circuit:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-Conductive-Glue-and-Glue-a-Circuit/?ALLSTEPS

OpenBuilds is a community of sharing. Its goal is to make sharing open source builds as fun and easy as possible and it is the place to share open source builds, projects and ideas with like minded people.

Very usable 3d printable connectors by Radus used to make a simple table with PVC pipes used for table legs.







File download:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:188812

Great video showing the process of creating DIY 3d printed headphones with all the steps.



Source:

https://www.youtube.com/user/guardthemind?feature=watch

Here is detailed instruction video on how to use ceramic delta 3d printer by Jonathan Keep. It explains basic software operations with Repetier host, clay preparation, clay printing etc. Very interesting.




First post about this ceramic delta:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/06/delta-ceramic-printer-by-jonathan-keep.html


http://www.keep-art.co.uk/Self_build.html

Adding laser cutting or engraving to your 3d printer will make it into much more powerful tool and let's face it: everything is infinitely cooler with some lasers on it.

Here are two solutions if you want to transform your 3d printer into tabletop miniature Death Star and decide to laser cut / engrave some shapes or engravings into balsa, acrylic, Mylar or other suitable material ...

Universal Laser Attachment for 3D Printers Stand Alone System

Is freely available rough project with code and schematics published on Thingiverse. You will need more hands-on previous experience with Arduino programming, electronics, soldering, laser diodes and putting it all together.































http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:140663
by James Sesler (http://www.youtube.com/user/MrInventWorld?feature=watch).
It is work in progress and further upgrades and refinements are possible.

Laser-Bot Personal Manufacturing System by J Tech Photonics

This is more advanced finished commercial laser kit with laser diode and amp driver board that is compatible with several printers like some RepRaps, Makerbot Replicator 2 and 2X, Felix Printers and Makerbot Thing-O-Matic.
They provide their own G-code "LaserEngraver" plugin to convert Inkscape drawings.

Laser Bot hardware setup

Laser Bot workflow

Here is their laser kit cutting balsa wood:





Here is a video of it in action cutting thin Mylar transparency film sheet into soldering stencil.

Laser diode head

Kit is priced slightly over 220 USD.

Technical specifications from product page:

This kit is a combination of the popular 1.7W 445nm Laser Diode Component and the 2.0 Amp matching laser driver kit with a 12V adapter. This includes everything you need to get your laser up and running in your product or project. We now even cable the laser with a Mini Fit Jr. connector at 2.5 feet to make it even easier to hook everything up! The kit includes:
1.7W 445nm Laser Diode Component (now with 2.5′ Mini Fit Jr. Connector Cable included)
2.0 Amp Adjustable Laser Diode Driver Kit, 8V Compliance
Power Adapter 12V 2A, US Style Plug
Laser Specifications:
This multi transverse mode laser diode component is pressed fit mounted in an aluminum housing and has an aluminum mountable heat-sink. The front of the component contains a glass collimating lens for the laser output.
Absolute Maximum Ratings:
Item Absolute Maximum Ratings Unit
Forward Current (Tc = 25°C) 1.7 A
Allowable Reverse Current (Tc = 25°C) 85 mA
Operating Case Temperature 50 °C

Electrical / Optical Characteristics
Item Min Typ. Max Unit
Optical Output Power 1.6 W
Dominant Wavelength 435 455 nm
Threshold Current 80 220 mA
Operating Voltage 3.7 5.5 V
Beam Divergence Full Anlge (1/e^2) // 5 14 25 deg.
Beam Divergence Full Anlge (1/e^2) – Perp 30 44 50 deg.
Driver Overview:
2 Amp Version, 12V adapter Kit
This version of the popular High Current Laser Driver offers up a lot of current in a small package for an excellent price. The design team perfected several versions of this driver to give a quality current source with a large compliance voltages with both adapter choices to be able to work with most every laser diode. They packed it with multiple features and made it capable of interfacing with even the oldest of your equipment in your lab or the newest wiz bang in your product or system. This version includes a 12V power adapter that will provide 8 volts at maximum load of 2 amps. This can be used to power higher voltage laser diodes in the 4-7 volt range like the 445nm laser diode component. It can also power IR laser diodes in the 2-4 volt range, but it might need additional cooling fan if left on for extended amounts of time.
This driver will provide 1 amp of constant regulated and protected current to the diode. Configurable current limits with jumpers for 0.5 and 1.0 amp settings and adjustable output with an analog trim pot. It also can be remotely controlled with an opto isolated input with a super huge range of acceptable voltages for turning your driver on and off. Does your equipment in your project or system that you want to interface with have backwards logic? No problem! There is a jumper for choosing inverted or non inverted logic as well! Perfect for integrating into any final product or project.

Features:

High power current source for driving Laser Diodes and Light Emitting Diodes.
Current Range of 2 Amps.
Current Ranges are adjustable in 500ma increments.
No need for extra cooling at maximum load. (depends on power adapter and compliance voltage.)
Soft start for diode protection.
Reverse diode and ESD protection.
Thermal Protection and Over Current Protection.
Compact Size.
CW Mode and Input Control Mode.
Digitally isolated control input.
Control from CW to 5KHz.
Configurable Input signal: Inverting /Non-Inverting.
Multiple connector options for both Laser/LED output and control input.
LED status lights for input laser enabled and laser on.
Optional fan for extra thermal stability.
Specifications:
Specification HCDBSA 2 AMP
Current Source Range: 0 – 2 Amps
Current Limit Jumper Settings: 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0 Amps
Compliance Voltage w/7.5V adapter: 3.5 Volts
Compliance Voltage w/12V adapter: 8 volts
Current Resolution: 0.1%
Current Adjustment: Analog Trim Pot
Current Range Accuracy Always greater than limit, no more than 15%
Laser Diode Protection: Soft Start, Reverse Voltage, Current Limit, Thermal Shutdown
AC Adapter Input Voltage: 100 – 240 VAC
Control Signal Digital Isolation Voltage: 4500 Vrms
Minimum Control Signal ”Turn On” Voltage: 2.8 Volts
Control Signal Maximum Voltage: 36 Volts
Control Signal Maximum Current: 50 ma
Control Signal Maximum Frequency: 5KHz
Connectors: Screw Terminal and Molex Mini-Fit Jr™ Connectors
Operating Temperature: 0 to 40 °C
Storage Temperature: -40 to 70 °C
Dimensions: 2.85″ x 2.1″

They just decided to make RepRap Prusa held together with duct tape. Duct tape holds the universe together so it is good enough to support the structural frame of Prusa Mendel. Great work guys! There is no end result video yet, but I'll keep my eye on it.







Source: http://www.youtube.com/user/RantAndSlander?feature=watch

Update:

Their taped 3d printer is advancing:

Made by hand! 0,4 mm carbide PCB drill bit and brass dome head nut ... fining the center with lack of vibration ... great work!

I would like to see it printing ...


Video by: Alan Long

From video description:

Delta 3D Printer Project. Start To Finish Of Building A rostock delta robot 3D printer prototype.
The files and General information is here: 

http://rwgresearch.com/open-projects/... 

This is a full documentary from start to finish including software and time-laps of 3D prints.
This was my winter project for 2013.
If your in to reading instead of watching you can visit the forums where i did post most of the photos and information but is not as complete as the video:
http://www.open-source-energy.org/for...

The files I talk about are posted on the forums on the first post of the link posted above or my website.
http://rwgresearch.com/
more here:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostockhttp://thingiverse.com/tag:rostock

Results from http://rwgresearch.com/open-projects/3847-2/:





Update:

here is another detailed guide on how to build different Delta style 3d printer with wooden frame:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2013/12/deltatrix-3d-printer-with-detailed.html