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Uzarski Designs guy had a problem. His nail clipping procedure was sub-optimal. He solved this, very challenging, problem with a help of 3d printing.
You Sir is what makes this wonderful technology grow! Hat tip!




Solve your nail clipping issues with easy download from Thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:238206

If you are using OpenSCAD and you are limited by its simple code editor, you can use it with advanced text editors like Sublime Text or Textmate to code in. They offer many advanced options like syntax coloring, automation of many manual operations etc.

You can use OpenSCAD with almost any external text editor, here is the short explanation:

OpenScad is able to check for changes of files and automatically recompile if a file change occurs. To use this feature enable "Design->Automatic Reload and Compile"

Once the feature is activated, just load the scad file within OpenSCAD as usual ("File->Open..").

After that, open the scad file in your favorite editor too. Edit and work on the scad file within the external editor. Whenever the file is saved to disk (from within the external editor), OpenSCAD will recognize the file change and automatically recompiles accordingly.

The internal editor can be hidden by minimizing the frame with the mouse or by selecting "View->Hide editor".

Open SCAD is programmatic CAD that is used most often, but there are many others. Some of them have syntax coloring, and probably some more could be used with external text editors.  

Textmate (Mac OS only) OpenSCAD add-on:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15292

Textmate webpage: http://macromates.com/

Notepad++ language file:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15363

Notepad++ text editor download: http://notepad-plus-plus.org/

Sublime Text 2 OpenSCAD add-on:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:235558

Sublime Text multiplatfrom text editor: http://www.sublimetext.com/






Here are some information how to use OpenSCAD with

emacs: https://github.com/openscad/openscad/blob/master/contrib/scad-mode.el

and Kate: here is the Kate syntax file http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29505

Source:

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_an_external_Editor_with_OpenSCAD

Thingiverse finally released their mobile application for Android platform! It is available on Google play:

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.thingiverse

You can friction weld plastic together with a help of Dremel tool as described and shown here:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/01/how-to-friction-weld-plastic-with.html

There are also 3d printable "rivets" that you can insert and do a sort of "blind" or Pop riveting.




























You can download files for printing them here:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:61510

Adam Kemp made this low cost extruder project from scratch made from aluminum and automotive glow spark as heat source. You will need to cut some aluminum parts, but the design looks solid.

From project description:

I love 3D printing, so I decided to build my own printer. After playing around with commercial machines like MakerBot’s Cupcake and Thing-O-Matic, it hit me that I could make my own for free, or very near it.

So, off I headed down the long and winding road to design and build a small 3D printer (or as my son likes to call it, the Toy Machine). After a great deal of dumpster diving, I scavenged enough stepper motors, linear rails, and drive belts for the mechanical parts, but I was stumped when it came to the heart of the printer: the extruder. The internet turned up a slew of fancy designs, but all possessed one design flaw: they required 3D printed parts, so you’d need to have a 3D printer to make a 3D printer!

My solution was to build this robust extruder using a handful of tools, one online parts order, and a trip to the auto-parts store. For a heater, it uses a $10 glow plug from a diesel engine, and it performs as well as commercially available extruders.

Thingiverse page:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:153464

Detailed making instructions are at:

http://makezine.com/projects/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/glow-plug-3d-printer-extruder/

Artifex technical specifications:

Print technology: Fused Filament Fabrication
Build Space
- W × D × H: 230 × 310 × 190 mm (9 × 12.2 × 7.5 in)
- Volume: 13,547 cm3 (827 in3, 2X the volume of MakerBot® ReplicatorTM 2)
(Note: MakerBot and Replicator are registered marks or trademarks of MakerBot Industries, LLC.)
- Height extendable to 220 mm (8.7 in) in the middle of X-axis for additional 198 × 310 × 30 mm (1,841 cm3, or 112 in3) space
Layer resolution: 0.05 mm (0.002 in)
Nozzle diameter: 0.35 mm (0.014 in)
Print materials: 1.75 mm PLA and ABS
Speed
- Top print speed: 150 mm/sec (infill or inner perimeter), 100 mm/sec (outer perimeter)
- Top non-print speed: 300 mm/sec
Acceleration
- Top print acceleration: 3000 mm/sec2 (infill), 1500 mm/sec2 (perimeter)
- Top non-print acceleration: 300 mm/sec2
Electronical
Power requirements:  110/220 VAC
Electronics: RAMBo
Hot-end: MakerGear hot-end with 0.35mm nozzle
Heated bed: 24V 200W heated bed up to 120°C
Cooling fans: Three 24V cooling fans for filament drive, print surface, and electronics
Mechanical
Overall dimension: W × D × H: 484 × 482 × 480 mm (19 × 19 × 19 in)
Weight: 11 Kg (24 lb)
Frame: Aluminum extrusions
Motion

Christmas is coming you dusted off your xmas tree and decorated it: everybody try to make it different, buying new decorations and balls of different colors. Well, if you are looking for something original, think of making your personalized balls with drawings and writings at will.
Here comes this machine: a printer, or better to say a plotter, which will draw with a marker on spheres at will, derived from models transformed into G-code files. The machine is easily doable with a few 3D printable pieces

You can build it yourself:

.stl files at:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:201052

Detailed build instructions and code:

http://www.open-electronics.org/spherebot-reloaded-customize-your-xmas/

Marry Xmas people!!!! HO  HO HO!

TK300 by RockyShi is on Thingiverse now ... information may be limited, design looks sturdy, it is made with steel side plates and CNC aluminum connecting parts ...



























From Thingiverse description:

• Ultimaker main board, will change to Rumba soon
• dual DD2 extruders, direct driving
• dual metal hotends E3D with cooling fans,Fast heat up
• lcd controller
• use prontface,cura or other opensource software
• 1.75mm ABS or PLA filament
• Fast change filament function
• Steel cabinet for power supply and electronics
• Borosilicate glass
• Mk2a 300mm pcb heatbed with 24v,can reach 140 centigrade
• building size 300*300*320mm
• layer thickness 0.1-0.4mm
• Steel side plates
• CNC aluminum connecting parts
• Modular packing

Dual extruder version:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:212131

Base version:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:212115

Deltas are everywhere ... here is new one by AndyCart ...

From Thingiverse description:

This is my own variant of a variety of 3D printer designs available. I have used ideas from Kossel, Delta Pi, 3DR and, of course, Rostock. Many thanks to the designers of those machines for their brilliant ideas that I have shamelessly 'Cherry Picked' hence the name of my design!
The rods on my printer are 277mm from steel ball centre to centre. The towers are 800mm Bosch/Rexroth aluminium extrusion and the base frame extrusions are 250mm long as are, obviously, the top frame extrusions. You need nine in all.
The bearing carriers use 6 623 10mm x 4mm x 3mm bearings and slide directly on the extrusion. Nut traps for M3 nuts are included in the carrier. The rods connect to the carrier with a plate that fastens with 3 M3 bolts, again nut traps are included. The rod carriers and the effector plate hold 10mm x 5mm countersunk, cylindrical rare earth magnets and my rod end balls are 8mm diameter. My rods are 5mm carbon tube but you could use 6mm aluminium. My rod end balls have a 10mm M5 threaded rod and are the type used for the ends of gas struts, etc. the idea of the seperate rod carriers was to enable different rod attachment methods but the magnets and balls have worked out fine for me.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:210028

think&have 3D printer is simple and durable 3D Printer, developed in Hamburg, Germany, based on RepRap Wallace (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18829), using two base parts from Printrbot (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:16990).

The improvements are:

• bowden extruder for less moved masses, 
• special kevlar line drives (no belts) for x and y, 
• metric design, 
• only few vitamins, 
• easy adjustable bed, 
• alloy / steel bed for fast heating and good heat dissipation 
• more stability on y and z motor mounts

think&have 3D printer Thingiverse page: 

Objects printed with think&have 3d printer

Archery is great field for using 3d printers. Many things can be produced, repaired and replaced. Here are some:

DIY Arrow Nock

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:203761

DIY Arrow Fletch Protector / Straightener

DIY Arrow Accessories Box

3d printable replacement key for notebook keyboard. Nice work. I have several keyboards missing keys. Some fine knifework was needed to clean the part ...



























http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199914 by fckmakerbot

Very usable 3d printable connectors by Radus used to make a simple table with PVC pipes used for table legs.







File download:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:188812

Mini CNC is 3d printable small drawing machine. Project is under development.




http://plotterbot.com/2013/11/how-to-build-a-tiny-cnc-drawing-robot/

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:187339

I have a plan to build a music room in a old brick shed in my back yard. I want to have cheap HiFi vinyl listening setup. After a research I learned that sound diffusers are goot thing to have. I went to Thingiverse and found 3d printed sound diffusers by dkubicek.
The idea is good but the time needed to print sufficient are is ridiculous and the costs are just too high for me.
I'll maybe make couple of modules just for decoration and stick with the wooden ones from wood scraps laying around.























From Thingiverse description:

What is a diffusor ?

If you have an room with unpleasing audio properties, one possibly reasons can be echos that occur in a structured way. Early echos (e.g. <0.4 sec) are e.g. well known for inhibiting personal speaking comfort.
Now to get rid of echos, there are two practical ways: sound absorbers and sound diffusors.
The goal of a good diffusor is to scatter sound, so that a specific incoming sound goes to all possible output directions. Hence echos are quite "mute" and do not start at a precise time, but one hears a slow buildup and decrease of echo noise.
Audio absorbers create a harsh empty environment, similar to speaking in open air, while diffusors create a "warm" and sound of a well stocked living room.
Mainly, there exist one and two-dimensional variants, and a you will find heaps of information in the references. And, they are extremely common in recording studios.
Where do you want to put your diffusor ?On the sides and above the "viewing direction" to the sound source. In your rear, sound absorbers are a better choice.

Building a diffusor

Usually, diffusors are made from wood. The material should be reasonably stiff, so sound does not deform it. Ideally, the material should not burn, which sadly, PLA and ABS do. So, please be aware that a room with diffusors is a possible deathtrap.
I figured that these diffusors can be printed easily with 3d printers, although the printsize requires to join many pieces to obtain a large enough area to actually effect the room sound. For a minimal effect, you want a couple of square meter (>25 prints).

Cost Analysis

I found one offer where 6 pieces of 0.6*0.6 mm diffusor cost 370 E. Thats 170 E per square meter.
If you 3d print it with the octagonal structure, you will need 5kg of filament per square meter. Thats in a similar price regime. If you print for material costs. Also, you need to print for 16 days for a square meter on my printer...

The files

All files are created using openscad, the stls are just examples, and its highly recommended that you do not reuse a single part in a panel, but each part should be different. Also, you want to set the wall thickness according to your 3d printers nozzle.
2d rectangular diffusor. It has sideholes, to mount the pieces together. It is suited for 3d printing, but takes quite a while.
Hexagonal diffusor. I figured that instead of a recitlinear grid, the diffusor cells can be aligned in a hexagonal layout. Really neat, no? However, you need to play with your slicing software, so that the outside walls actually print.
Manhatten 1d diffusor, which prints quickest, but only diffuses in one direction. The figer structure might be to small, you might want to increase the cell size to 20mm, for even faster printing.

Reference:

The videos linked here are also shown above. They are not from me, and I just wanted to link them for further information for the reader.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diffusion_%28acoustics%29http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFeM2uWuMZIhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOjHsexNBTQhttp://arqen.com/sound-diffusers/http://www.mh-audio.nl/diffusor.asp

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:189052

Here is a video on how-to build skyline sound diffuser from wooden boards:

Things ain't gonna tie themselves together without some outside help. :-) Here is a great project by Rich Olson done in soft PLA.









Thingiverse page (you can use Thingiverse custimizer to change sizes)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:178234

Olson's blog and more details:

http://nothinglabs.blogspot.com/2013/11/3d-printed-hook-loop-fasteners.html

He has great tips post on how to print with various filament types including elastic PLA:

http://nothinglabs.blogspot.com/2013/09/filament-roundup-3d-printing-in-all.html

You can now build this great looking delta yourself. Boots industries released the files since their new printer BI v2.0 is coming out.












From Thingiverse description:

Ask questions in our forums.
Learn how to strings the towers here.
Learn how to calibrate the towers here.
Learn how to properly calibrate the Ramps 1.4 pots here.
The Rostock BI V1.0 was sold at Boots Industries in fully assembled and kit form.
Our popular version of the Rostock printer by Johann features a cable drive and several other key modifications/improvements.
All parts shown were printed using our Super Premium PLA Filament.
Comes with everything you need to build your own or improve upon the design:
All Sketchup models, ready to print stl trays and additional exploded view models and pictures.
Don't hesitate to contact us if you want help with your build!

Quick specs:

• Printer Dimensions (LxWxH): 380 mm X 330 mm X 580 mm
• Build Volume (cylindrical): 170 mm Diameter X 155 mm Height
• Maximum Operating / Printing Speed: 200 mm/s
• Minimum Layer-height: 100 Microns (0.10 mm)

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:164965

Very hackable printer design by Rotorit. It is has simplistic design and can use various materials for frame construction. Here you can see two versions, one from more expensive aluminum and one low cost option with frame made from wood.


Adepto presentation with aluminum frame:




Adepto 3d printer with 15$ wooden frame:

Alu frame Adapto printer

Wooden frame Adapto 3d printer

From project description:

200x240x280mm print volume!!
To download the parts see GitHub: http://bit.ly/11VXWYF Contains parts for both 8mm and 10mm smooth rods + +
For some build guidees see RepRap Wiki: http://bit.ly/12dyT3b
This V1.0 have a lot of updated parts for the Adapto V 0.1.1
The thought behind the Adapto 3D printer is that one can use the same printed parts on printers with different types of materials(in the frame).
The history behind this design is that i got hold of some alu extrusions that was intended to be used on a MendelMax
During the MM build i got so extremely annoyed with how over engineered it is and the blind joints so I decided to tear the MM apart in favor to make a design that only used 50% of the MM extrusions(that means i now have enough extrusions for 2 printers :D ).
I also designed the parts in a way that makes the builder able to use either Alu extrusions (20x20mm), wood, alu, acryl plates or plates made out of any material actually(if it is stiff enough).
I recommend not using anything thicker than 20mm thick plates/stripes(due to the y motor mount and y idler parts) and use max 34mm wide frame parts(due to the design of the feet`s), but thinner is ok if the material is stiff enough.
If you decide to build one, please feel free to add a pin on the Adapto Map
https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=205564004670126753599.0004c999938430cb1f611&msa=0&ll=67.339861

https://github.com/rotorit/Adapto

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:168023

Here is another example of DIY 3d printable replacement part, this time for popular personal activity / fitness tracker Jawbone Up.
The cap can be lost or broken and someone designed replacement cap (with their logo on it). Retail price of the original part is around 10 $ + shipping, so printing it can save huge percent of that cost.
It shows how home 3d printing can change economics of replacement parts and raises some questions about IP rights. Since I'm sure that this trend of DIY replacement parts will continue  I wonder what will be the response from the corporate manufacturers and design IP rights owners.

Adding laser cutting or engraving to your 3d printer will make it into much more powerful tool and let's face it: everything is infinitely cooler with some lasers on it.

Here are two solutions if you want to transform your 3d printer into tabletop miniature Death Star and decide to laser cut / engrave some shapes or engravings into balsa, acrylic, Mylar or other suitable material ...

Universal Laser Attachment for 3D Printers Stand Alone System

Is freely available rough project with code and schematics published on Thingiverse. You will need more hands-on previous experience with Arduino programming, electronics, soldering, laser diodes and putting it all together.































http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:140663
by James Sesler (http://www.youtube.com/user/MrInventWorld?feature=watch).
It is work in progress and further upgrades and refinements are possible.

Laser-Bot Personal Manufacturing System by J Tech Photonics

This is more advanced finished commercial laser kit with laser diode and amp driver board that is compatible with several printers like some RepRaps, Makerbot Replicator 2 and 2X, Felix Printers and Makerbot Thing-O-Matic.
They provide their own G-code "LaserEngraver" plugin to convert Inkscape drawings.

Laser Bot hardware setup

Laser Bot workflow

Here is their laser kit cutting balsa wood:





Here is a video of it in action cutting thin Mylar transparency film sheet into soldering stencil.

Laser diode head

Kit is priced slightly over 220 USD.

Technical specifications from product page:

This kit is a combination of the popular 1.7W 445nm Laser Diode Component and the 2.0 Amp matching laser driver kit with a 12V adapter. This includes everything you need to get your laser up and running in your product or project. We now even cable the laser with a Mini Fit Jr. connector at 2.5 feet to make it even easier to hook everything up! The kit includes:
1.7W 445nm Laser Diode Component (now with 2.5′ Mini Fit Jr. Connector Cable included)
2.0 Amp Adjustable Laser Diode Driver Kit, 8V Compliance
Power Adapter 12V 2A, US Style Plug
Laser Specifications:
This multi transverse mode laser diode component is pressed fit mounted in an aluminum housing and has an aluminum mountable heat-sink. The front of the component contains a glass collimating lens for the laser output.
Absolute Maximum Ratings:
Item Absolute Maximum Ratings Unit
Forward Current (Tc = 25°C) 1.7 A
Allowable Reverse Current (Tc = 25°C) 85 mA
Operating Case Temperature 50 °C

Electrical / Optical Characteristics
Item Min Typ. Max Unit
Optical Output Power 1.6 W
Dominant Wavelength 435 455 nm
Threshold Current 80 220 mA
Operating Voltage 3.7 5.5 V
Beam Divergence Full Anlge (1/e^2) // 5 14 25 deg.
Beam Divergence Full Anlge (1/e^2) – Perp 30 44 50 deg.
Driver Overview:
2 Amp Version, 12V adapter Kit
This version of the popular High Current Laser Driver offers up a lot of current in a small package for an excellent price. The design team perfected several versions of this driver to give a quality current source with a large compliance voltages with both adapter choices to be able to work with most every laser diode. They packed it with multiple features and made it capable of interfacing with even the oldest of your equipment in your lab or the newest wiz bang in your product or system. This version includes a 12V power adapter that will provide 8 volts at maximum load of 2 amps. This can be used to power higher voltage laser diodes in the 4-7 volt range like the 445nm laser diode component. It can also power IR laser diodes in the 2-4 volt range, but it might need additional cooling fan if left on for extended amounts of time.
This driver will provide 1 amp of constant regulated and protected current to the diode. Configurable current limits with jumpers for 0.5 and 1.0 amp settings and adjustable output with an analog trim pot. It also can be remotely controlled with an opto isolated input with a super huge range of acceptable voltages for turning your driver on and off. Does your equipment in your project or system that you want to interface with have backwards logic? No problem! There is a jumper for choosing inverted or non inverted logic as well! Perfect for integrating into any final product or project.

Features:

High power current source for driving Laser Diodes and Light Emitting Diodes.
Current Range of 2 Amps.
Current Ranges are adjustable in 500ma increments.
No need for extra cooling at maximum load. (depends on power adapter and compliance voltage.)
Soft start for diode protection.
Reverse diode and ESD protection.
Thermal Protection and Over Current Protection.
Compact Size.
CW Mode and Input Control Mode.
Digitally isolated control input.
Control from CW to 5KHz.
Configurable Input signal: Inverting /Non-Inverting.
Multiple connector options for both Laser/LED output and control input.
LED status lights for input laser enabled and laser on.
Optional fan for extra thermal stability.
Specifications:
Specification HCDBSA 2 AMP
Current Source Range: 0 – 2 Amps
Current Limit Jumper Settings: 0.5, 1.0, 1.5, 2.0 Amps
Compliance Voltage w/7.5V adapter: 3.5 Volts
Compliance Voltage w/12V adapter: 8 volts
Current Resolution: 0.1%
Current Adjustment: Analog Trim Pot
Current Range Accuracy Always greater than limit, no more than 15%
Laser Diode Protection: Soft Start, Reverse Voltage, Current Limit, Thermal Shutdown
AC Adapter Input Voltage: 100 – 240 VAC
Control Signal Digital Isolation Voltage: 4500 Vrms
Minimum Control Signal ”Turn On” Voltage: 2.8 Volts
Control Signal Maximum Voltage: 36 Volts
Control Signal Maximum Current: 50 ma
Control Signal Maximum Frequency: 5KHz
Connectors: Screw Terminal and Molex Mini-Fit Jr™ Connectors
Operating Temperature: 0 to 40 °C
Storage Temperature: -40 to 70 °C
Dimensions: 2.85″ x 2.1″