actress of pakistan

If you are using OpenSCAD and you are limited by its simple code editor, you can use it with advanced text editors like Sublime Text or Textmate to code in. They offer many advanced options like syntax coloring, automation of many manual operations etc.

You can use OpenSCAD with almost any external text editor, here is the short explanation:

OpenScad is able to check for changes of files and automatically recompile if a file change occurs. To use this feature enable "Design->Automatic Reload and Compile"

Once the feature is activated, just load the scad file within OpenSCAD as usual ("File->Open..").

After that, open the scad file in your favorite editor too. Edit and work on the scad file within the external editor. Whenever the file is saved to disk (from within the external editor), OpenSCAD will recognize the file change and automatically recompiles accordingly.

The internal editor can be hidden by minimizing the frame with the mouse or by selecting "View->Hide editor".

Open SCAD is programmatic CAD that is used most often, but there are many others. Some of them have syntax coloring, and probably some more could be used with external text editors.  

Textmate (Mac OS only) OpenSCAD add-on:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15292

Textmate webpage: http://macromates.com/

Notepad++ language file:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15363

Notepad++ text editor download: http://notepad-plus-plus.org/

Sublime Text 2 OpenSCAD add-on:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:235558

Sublime Text multiplatfrom text editor: http://www.sublimetext.com/






Here are some information how to use OpenSCAD with

emacs: https://github.com/openscad/openscad/blob/master/contrib/scad-mode.el

and Kate: here is the Kate syntax file http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29505

Source:

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/OpenSCAD_User_Manual/Using_an_external_Editor_with_OpenSCAD

It looks like some sort of K8200 clone or re-brandedimported machine from Philippines. It is sold for 100 000 Philippine Peso which is almost 2200 USD. I have a filing that any Philippino interested in buying it could build a better printer for less money. On other hand, maybe it's hard to import parts into Philippines.



Technical specifications:

• Linear ball bearings: 8 and 10 mm
• Technology: FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) for PLA and ABS
• Power supply: 15 V / 6.5 A max.
• Standard USB 2.0 to Mini 5pin
• Dimensions of printable area: 200 x 200 x 200mm
• Typical printing speed: 100 mm/s
• Maximum print speed: 150 to 300 mm/s (depending on the object to be printed)
• Extrusion nozzle: 0.5 mm
• Extrusion thermistor: NTC 100K
• Extruded aluminum profiles: 20 mm wide
• Movement: 4 Wantai Stepper Motor
• Printer Dimension: 600mm x 430mm x 580mm (L x W x H)
• Packaging Dimension: 650mm x 515mm x 640mm (L x W x H)

Resolution:

• Nominal mechanical resolution: 
• X and Y: 0.015 mm (smallest step the printing plate can move in the X and Y direction) 
• Z: 0.781 µm (smallest step the printing plate can move in the Z direction)
• Nominal printing resolution: 
• Wall thickness (X,Y): 0.5 mm 
• Layer thickness (Z): 0.20 - 0.25 mm
• Software: Repetier version 0.84 and up
• included: 5m PLA filament black sample
• Tested in: Windows 7 and Windows XP

 http://www.cdrking.com/?mod=products&type=view&sid=18967&main=167

Barnacules has another nice video tutorial about how he mounted active cooling fan on his Robo 3D printer Arduino controller board to prevent overheating. He used 3d printed mounting brackets.


From video description:

You can print these brackets on your Robo3D with heated bed off to prevent a crash and have your printer fix itself! You don't really need a 2nd 3D printer :P
Get Fan Bracket @ http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:166045 

Today while printing on my Robo 3D I ran into a problem where after 30 minutes it would just shut down and stop printing, after this happened 3 - 4 times in a row I flipped the printer over and felt the ramp board and it was on fire! I checked the forums and talked to some friends and they said that the ramps heat up really bad and can shut down if you run the heated bed at high temps while printing for prolonged time (known issue). The solution is to add some active cooling in the form of a fan to the Arduino board that drives the Robo 3D.

I used my Ultimaker 3D printer to print out a few brackets from Thingiverse.com to mount an 80mm fan to the bottom since I had clearance with the new feet I printed that raised the printer up for the Smart LCD Controller I recently installed (check that video out). The results were epic and in this video I will show you the entire process end to end to fix this problem once and for all.
The brackets were printed w/ following CURA settings on Ultimaker v1
White PLA material
0.2mm layer height
0.4mm nozzle
70c Bed
210c Hot End
100mm/sec
Cooling fan 100%
Total printing time approx 50 minutes...

Source: https://www.youtube.com/user/barnacules1?feature=watch

Video demonstration of color changing heat sensitive 3d printing filament!



Video by:
https://www.youtube.com/user/GyrobotUK?feature=watch

Nicholas posted new Wally video:


From video description:

It is about time to provide proof of Wally printing a large object. If you look closely you can see the bed going up and down to adjust for the bed level. It took about 7 hours to print the vase. It is 100mm x 100mm x 145mm. I used a .4mm nozzle and did .2mm tall layers. I used default slic3r speeds. I have gone as much as 4 time faster while I was watching but for an unattended print like this I wasn't as adventurous. I suspect that I can go about 2 times as fast before surface quality suffers.

https://github.com/NicholasSeward/ConceptFORGE/tree/master/Wally

http://forum.conceptforge.org/viewforum.php?f=7