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PLA and BAS are most used materials in 3d printing. If we used PLA as support meterial, how can it be removed from ABS without damage to ABS? PLA can be dissolved with caustic soda  in ultrasonic tank.

Bertho Boman experimented with various concentrations and presented results on his blog:

This time I tested several different plastic types and varying strength Sodium Hydroxide.
1.0 Molar: 40g per liter water
1.8 Molar: 72g per liter water (same as the video)
3 Molar: 120g per liter water
6 Molar: 240g per liter water

Test Result:
After 5 hours in the ultrasonic tank @ 60°C there was no visual effect or surface hardness change evaluating the samples under a microscope of the different plastic types except the PLA.

http://www.vinland.com/blog/?p=162




































Extensive details and experiments with other methods and how to dissolve PLA fast when no other material is involved:

http://www.vinland.com/blog/?p=68#more-68


Here is video showing the process with professional ultrasonic tank and caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) that takes 3 hours to remove PLA support material from ABS part. 217 grams is added to 3 liters of water heated at 60C.
Ultrasonic tank used in the video is priced around 1300 USD, but it can be found much cheaper at some 300 USD.




They talk about dissolving PLA in .stl podcast (great podcast btw):



RepRap forums discussion:

http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,153508,199753

Proto Pasta has some new filaments with enhanced properties then regular PLA / ABS.



Video from their Kickstarter:

Proto Pasta offers:

Carbon Fiber Reinforced PLA

Proto-Pasta High Temperature PLA is made from a custom compound consisting of mineral filled impact modified PLA with a nucleating agent to help promote crystallization. Crystallization after printing is what gives this material added heat resistance. To fully realize this advantage, parts must be soaked in hot water or an oven after printing at 60C-80C for 3-5 minutes. This crystallizes the material and makes it much more heat resistant. It does not require a heated bed to print well, but this may help crystallize the material after printing and make oven soaking unnecessary for some parts. High Temperature PLA is a glossy off white, or very light gray. Printed parts look good and have slightly more texture than standard PLA. This material is not translucent like standard PLA.
We have had good results printing at 190C-210C using a .5mm nozzle and direct-drive spring loaded pinch-roll style extrusion head.
Layer adhesion is good and the material has low warpage.

Makeraser is a tool that smooths, glues and strengthens 3d printed object by applying acetone or acetone based "ABS juice".  It looks like nifty little simple and useful tool.






http://www.makeraser.com/

Update:

here is the video review of Makeraser:

http://diy3dprinting.blogspot.com/2014/02/review-of-makeraser.html

There are more filaments from various materials available for 3d printing then just simple PLA and ABS. Here are some links on news related to filaments ...

Excellent roundup post by NothingLabs on various filaments, how to print with them and their properties:

http://nothinglabs.blogspot.com/2013/09/filament-roundup-3d-printing-in-all.html

Here is his detailed presentation from google docs: http://tinyurl.com/kq3sbjd

Color changing and magnetic metal infused 3d printing filaments 

http://printm3d.com/filaments/

New flexible material - Filaflex

http://recreus.com/

Hackaday video from Maker Faire 2013:

Extensive test of soft PLA (FlexPLA):

http://algorithmicart.wordpress.com/2013/08/22/3d-printing-with-flexible-materials-flexpla-tests/

It is done by high precision scientific method "press-it-until-brakes" ...




Video by: http://www.youtube.com/user/radusava?feature=watch


How strong are your 3d printed parts? ( Btw: will they blend? :-))))))) )

Detailed videos of design and build process of new DIY RepRap based 3d printer project: ProtoForge. It looks very high quality built and well designed printer.






From video description:

These are the key features:
Build volume: 300x300x300 mm³ with heated bed up to 110 °C
Material: PLA, ABS, PVA
Dual Print head: 200-300g
Controller: Arduino Mega + Ramps 1.4
Extruder System: bowden extruder with feedrate measurement and control
Housing: rigid aluminum frame and pmma (plexiglas) panels

Main goals:

• big build volume
• as fast as possible
• print quality as good as possible
• PVA support material

Video source:

While browsing reddit I found this post by MEOW_POOPY on effects of his DIY 40$ printer chamber on print quality of larger ABS objects. Very informative and worth replicating.  Things printed in chamber look much better and smoother.

His first comment:

Printing on a LulzBot Taz. The two pieces that you see are an Explosive Nitrons from the game Tribes: Ascend.
Both were printed with the same settings. The one on the left was printed in an enclosure and the one on the right was printed outside(inside a garage, outside of an enclosure). It is a little hard to tell but there are actually a lot of cracks on the non-enclosure part.
The enclosure looks like shit but as you can see, it works. Took me about 1.5 hours to build and about $40.00 bucks to build. Almost all of that money went to the poly carbonate front window. I only used half of what I bought so really, its about 20 bucks.

Original reddit post:

http://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/1kwatm/the_difference_a_4000_dollar_enclosure_can_make/