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MAKE has released their 3d printers buyers guide for 2013. There is validity in their methods and some valuable data, but, suprise suprise, their Replicator 2 is the BEST in prosumer section.
Whole 3d printing community and market needs better, transparent and independent  mechanism for 3d printer review, grading and quality control.




Here are the results on the MAKEs web page:

http://makezine.com/magazine/guide-to-3d-printing-2014/3d-printer-overview-how-they-compare/

From the product page:

The industry’s only continuous tone full-color plastic 3D printer
Combine the Power of Vibrant Full Color With Durable Plastic Materials
The ProJet® 4500 gives you the power to make ready-to-use, flexible, strong parts, colored pixel by pixel, with superior surface quality. This office-friendly 3D printer is quick and efficient, and features intuitive operation controls, so you can ensure high productivity and cut operating costs.
Combine outer beauty with inner toughness and have durable, full-colour plastic parts right out of the printer from the ProJet 4500. Using ColorJet printing technology and the VisiJet® C4 Spectrum™ plastic material, the ProJet 4500 allows you to quickly create true-to-life prototypes of your end product, accurately display vital features, and produce high-resolution, customized end-use products.
The ProJet 4500 prints fast, generates minimal waste, requires no supports and delivers ready-to-use, full-color, functional parts and assemblies without post-processing or painting. This category-defining 3D printer is ideal for consumer products, home furnishings, healthcare, toys and collectibles companies, and completely shifts the paradigm for professionals engaged in architectural modeling, marketing communications, fashion design and more. Safe for office, easy-to-use, sustainable to operate and fast to print on, the ProJet 4500 is economical and comes with fully integrated material recycling for greater yield and better total material usage.

http://www.3dsystems.com/3d-printers/professional/projet-4500

PDF product brochure:

http://www.3dsystems.com/sites/www.3dsystems.com/files/projet4500-1113-usen-web.pdf


There is no published information on the price, but it is probably very very high (for regular person).

Mini CNC is 3d printable small drawing machine. Project is under development.




http://plotterbot.com/2013/11/how-to-build-a-tiny-cnc-drawing-robot/

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:187339

Nice project. Take a TV, open it, stick Raspberry Pi running Raspbmc into it with some 3d printed brackets and you have your own DIY smart TV. It's not simple as that, but you get the picture :-)




























"Carnivore" tapped the TVs logic board USB ports for power and connected RPi's outputs to TV's input ports which resulted in TV running a Raspberry Pi media center. Superior software on simple cheap LCD TV.







Build log and details:

http://droidbuild.com/completed-projects/raspberry-pi-inside-smart-led-tv/

I have a plan to build a music room in a old brick shed in my back yard. I want to have cheap HiFi vinyl listening setup. After a research I learned that sound diffusers are goot thing to have. I went to Thingiverse and found 3d printed sound diffusers by dkubicek.
The idea is good but the time needed to print sufficient are is ridiculous and the costs are just too high for me.
I'll maybe make couple of modules just for decoration and stick with the wooden ones from wood scraps laying around.























From Thingiverse description:

What is a diffusor ?

If you have an room with unpleasing audio properties, one possibly reasons can be echos that occur in a structured way. Early echos (e.g. <0.4 sec) are e.g. well known for inhibiting personal speaking comfort.
Now to get rid of echos, there are two practical ways: sound absorbers and sound diffusors.
The goal of a good diffusor is to scatter sound, so that a specific incoming sound goes to all possible output directions. Hence echos are quite "mute" and do not start at a precise time, but one hears a slow buildup and decrease of echo noise.
Audio absorbers create a harsh empty environment, similar to speaking in open air, while diffusors create a "warm" and sound of a well stocked living room.
Mainly, there exist one and two-dimensional variants, and a you will find heaps of information in the references. And, they are extremely common in recording studios.
Where do you want to put your diffusor ?On the sides and above the "viewing direction" to the sound source. In your rear, sound absorbers are a better choice.

Building a diffusor

Usually, diffusors are made from wood. The material should be reasonably stiff, so sound does not deform it. Ideally, the material should not burn, which sadly, PLA and ABS do. So, please be aware that a room with diffusors is a possible deathtrap.
I figured that these diffusors can be printed easily with 3d printers, although the printsize requires to join many pieces to obtain a large enough area to actually effect the room sound. For a minimal effect, you want a couple of square meter (>25 prints).

Cost Analysis

I found one offer where 6 pieces of 0.6*0.6 mm diffusor cost 370 E. Thats 170 E per square meter.
If you 3d print it with the octagonal structure, you will need 5kg of filament per square meter. Thats in a similar price regime. If you print for material costs. Also, you need to print for 16 days for a square meter on my printer...

The files

All files are created using openscad, the stls are just examples, and its highly recommended that you do not reuse a single part in a panel, but each part should be different. Also, you want to set the wall thickness according to your 3d printers nozzle.
2d rectangular diffusor. It has sideholes, to mount the pieces together. It is suited for 3d printing, but takes quite a while.
Hexagonal diffusor. I figured that instead of a recitlinear grid, the diffusor cells can be aligned in a hexagonal layout. Really neat, no? However, you need to play with your slicing software, so that the outside walls actually print.
Manhatten 1d diffusor, which prints quickest, but only diffuses in one direction. The figer structure might be to small, you might want to increase the cell size to 20mm, for even faster printing.

Reference:

The videos linked here are also shown above. They are not from me, and I just wanted to link them for further information for the reader.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diffusion_%28acoustics%29http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFeM2uWuMZIhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOjHsexNBTQhttp://arqen.com/sound-diffusers/http://www.mh-audio.nl/diffusor.asp

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:189052

Here is a video on how-to build skyline sound diffuser from wooden boards:

Mendel90 is highly scalable 3d printer design. Reddit user Dekker3d started this project of large print area Mendel90. He wants to print objects like masks and fantasy armor parts sized to fit a human.








Reddit thread on this big Mendel90:

http://www.reddit.com/r/Reprap/comments/1ri0dq/ridiculously_large_mendel90_under_construction/

Here is the update on his project he sent me on 07.12.2013.:


When I took the pic, I had two really bad rods in the Z axis, and I was waiting for someone to bring two replacements. I just got them, and will likely continue building this project in the coming few days.

I've altered a few designs of the original, like removing a reinforcement from the original x-motor-end so the stepper could be removed without cutting all the wiring and having to re-solder later. I'll also be using my customized Z endstop again, since it works quite a lot better than the original... even though it doesn't hold a particular position quite as well, it's much easier to tweak.

I fully expect I'll have to alter proportions and designs later, but the big advantage of rapid prototyping is that you can make incremental prototypes and just see what they do. I do wish to make a printer with a volume of at least 40x40x40 cm, so that a helmet, a kitchen machine or many other types of objects will fit in partially or completely.

I currently use 12mm MDF and 8mm smooth and threaded rods for construction. I'll probably end up replacing some of those parts once I find out the weak points. I might make a bowden setup at some point, but only once I've got it printing decently with a non-bowden extruder first so I know I can fit quite a bit of extra stuff on the extruder with no worries.

If it all goes really well, I might even experiment with another idea I'd been playing with, using a sugary or salty solution for a support material. One idea that stood out to me is a sugary treat that's commonly used in the netherlands, borstplaat: http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borstplaat_%28snoepgoed%29